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Which method you choose depends upon the time available to you, and how quickly the oiled wood needs to be used. Danish oil is a great finishing option if you're looking to bring out the warm tones of oak and make it look more vibrant. After the first and/or second coats have dried, any nibs or raised grain can be removed with a fine grade sandpaper or wire wool (000 or 0000 grade).
For the finest of finishes, use one of our Finishing Pads between coats of oil to create a super smooth finish. I'm getting close to the finishing stage, and decided on 2 possibilities to try: Clear poly, and Danish oil. The upcycling and restoration of all things leather, fabric and wood keeps Furniture Clinic at the heart of the circular economy.
The doors have three coats of Danish Oil on and do look great, there was no damage to the doors, or indeed the facings (that are oak on MDF). Identify the “A” side of your worktop, as that will be the side which will be visible in your kitchen. At the end of the day it's a personal judgement, but I suspect that almost everyone would conclude that Bubinga isn't a timber where you need fret about darkening or yellowing. This method allows any nibs or dust to be removed with very fine grade wire wool or fine abrasive paper between coats of Danish Oil if necessary.
It's also possible that this is due to a separation of the finish and a thin layer of air, or gaseous solvent, is refracting differently.
Another thing I do when sanding projects is after the 220 I give the wood a spray with water to swell the grain. The natural finish provided with the application of Danish Oil provides water resistance to all bare woods helping reduce staining and making the wood easier to clean and maintain. It is safe for food contact when dry and can be used for wooden bowls, chopping boards and butchers blocks.
Obviously your house will be warmer than your garage and it's often done to take a finished project into the house to complete 'drying' and while it's doing so it shouldn't be used. Leave the oil to penetrate for two to three minutes and wipe away any excess oil with a Lint Free Cloth.This helped when I applied oil in the afternoon, wiped it down, then the cool evening kept it contained until it skinned over. I have used oil based poly on red oak stained with Danish oil that has sat for only 2-3 days and it turned out quite nice. This finish should also be applied at room temperature and in a well ventilated area -it will smell. If the wood has been treated with an oil, varnish or paint, you'll need to strip this off, or sand it off with sandpaper prior to applying the Danish Wood Oil.
Danish Oil on oak really brings out the natural look and feel of the wood, enhancing the appearance of oak, as well as protecting it and making the oak easier to clean and maintain. Top quality Danish Oil is made to be absorbed into wood, protecting, nourishing and ‘feeding’ the wood from the inside. When applying Danish oil to oak wood, the type of Danish oil, the thickness of the coat, the temperature and humidity, and the type of oak wood can all affect how long it takes for the oil to cure.I assume as it's got a slight sheen the surface must be massively smoother than my crappy xmas trees so maybe I'll have better success with the wax this time. Before applying the Danish Oil to oak, it is important to properly clean the wood and remove any old finishes and spray on polishes. It shouldn't take more than one or two days at room temp but until the finish has fully cured if you heat the surface again with hot plates or waffles you will very likely get a recurrence, since any partially-cured oil in the finish can liquefy when heated and capillary action will tend to bring it to the surface.
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