Stanley 4 Smooth Plane 2 Inch 1-12-004

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As you examine the plane, look for a raised ring that works as a receiver of the knob cast into the bed. In some cases, there is one patent date, and no raised ring, meaning your plane is Type 13, and the dates range from 1925 to 1928. If there is one patent date and a raised ring, the plane type is Type 14, which dates between 1929 and 1930. If there are no patent dates and raised rings, you also have a plane Type 1 to 8. I only started using the plane a couple of weeks ago, and I used for a good few hours before I sharpened at all. I knew the blade was getting very blunt because I was getting a lot of tearout – and after sharpening I was amazed at the difference. But now it’s not particularly causing any tearout, I just can’t get a single smooth cut. It’s maddening!

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Each type has features that distinguish it from the others, with parts and markings cast into the metal. The variation features are the aircraft number, patent numbers, or dates. Allow me to detail the steps to dating a Stanley plane. Steps for dating Stanley hand planes Please get familiar with the names of the multiple parts of the tool using a Stanley diagram which I will summarise below. Look for the bed of the plane behind the frog. If you can see any patent dates cast into the bed, note how many are there. The only other thing I’ve noticed is that the lever cap is set way off centre which just seems wrong to me, but the screw is off centre so are they all like this? I’ve attached some photos to try and explain my point – the lever cap is pretty much touching the side of the plane on one side, but it’s a good 3mm off the other side. How can this be right? Having said that, I wasn’t having any problems at the start so I know it’s something I’m doing. If there is anything this plane has taught me, it is that you shouldn't take anything you read too seriously. If you need a plane and the one in front of you isn't the one that some "expert" says you should get, give it a try. That is, with certain exceptions. I'm a bit wary of any company that manufactures this style of plane currently, especially for cheap. You can't tell me that Made in India is just as good as Made in Sheffield. Also, I'm a bit wary of Chinese copies of modern premium planes. And yes, I include Stanley Sweetheart in this category.

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If that’s all set ok, I think it’s possible you aren’t applying enough downward pressure on the planing stroke. You need to press down on the front of the plane when starting the stoke, balance the pressure through the stroke and put pressure on the rear of the plane at the end. Some people describe it as trying to plane a hollow in the middle of the board. For this, you may need a Stanley wood plane parts diagram and a tape measure. As for the records, Stanley made tools starting in 1843, including a bench plane. They were decent tools, not great as built, but I didn't care for the look and feel over a vintage tool. Just look at the lever caps on those planes. The old one has flowing curves and from the side the curve blends with the side curve of the plane. The new one is crude by comparison, as though the designer couldn't figure out how to get the shape into his CAD system. CLASSIC CHERRY WOOD HANDLES: Made from Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified cherry wood, the handle and knob are shaped to fit the hand naturally and comfortably, providing comfort in extended or repetitive use.

STANLEY® “No. 4” Sweetheart™ Smoothing Bench Plane

I very much agree with your opinions on the aesthetics of this plane. I guess I'll have to post some more pictures. The old one definitely is cooler and makes me smile more. I was only trying to make the point that the new one is every bit as capable of working as well as the old one on the wood.Stanley Type 11 Handplanes date from 1910-1918. The APR-19-10 patent date appears with the other patent dates cast behind the frog. There is a new trademark adopted, where “STANLEY” “NEW BRITAIN” “CONN.” “U.S.A.” forms a v-shaped logo. Stanley Type 7 (Stanley no 7 plane identification) Handplanes date from 893-1899. The number designation is spaced farther apart. Bailey’s name and patent dates are no longer on the brass adjustment nut and cap iron. After a sharp edge, the chip breaker is the most important part of the plane and can, if not fitted correctly, lead to some of the problems that you describe. Stanley Type 5 Handplanes dates 1885-1888. It has two patent dates, “2-8-76” and “10-21-84”, stamped with the word “STANLEY.” It has the same trademark stamped into the iron, except that “STANLEY” is in a straight line, in large letters. The lateral lever is one-piece construction and engages the slot straight across the iron. The frog top is no longer rounded but flattened into an arch shape. The rest of the logo is in small letters. A MODERN CLASSIC: Today’s modernised Sweetheart™ series, updated to meet the latest needs of modern-day craftspeople, boasts a range of premium woodworking tools based on their original 1920s designs, including the iconic “No. 4” Smoothing Bench Plane itself. If you're a woodworker, finding a Sweetheart™ tool is like finding a treasure, and many still consider Sweetheart™ to be the best of the best.

Bench Planes - No. 4 Bailey | Cromwell Tools

I'd say the old stanleys look better.. but that's it. Put it on the shelf and use the modern one. As you've demonstrated, with an Illes Iron it cuts as good as the best of them. Also, the mouth on the type 11 is finer. This doesn't really make a difference to me, though. Since I've learned to set the chipbreaker farther forward on the blade for fine shavings, I've not noticed a need for a fine mouth. Made from Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified cherry wood, the handle and knob are shaped to fit the hand naturally and comfortably, providing comfort in extended or repetitive use. Hi Sylvain, no, I adjusted the lever cap screw when I changed the blade. It was under a similar tension as the regular blade. I'm not sure why it was so snug, but I have to say it was really nice. One could get used to that.Stanley Type 9 Handplanes date from 1902-1907. No patent date on the lateral lever. “B” casting marks are eliminated. The number designation is now cast just behind the knob. A smaller bearing surface is cast into the bed. The frog has a slot at its bottom to fit over the ribbed cast in the bed. English made Stanley planes seem to be less desirable then the US made ones. Why is that? Are they inferior?

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I am so frustrated and haven’t a clue what I’m doing wrong! Bought an old Stanley No. 4 plane from Tooltique and it has been working great on my workbench build (first ever woodworking project). I sharpened the blade a couple of times and it has started skipping/jumping across the wood leaving horizontal lines. It happens both with and against the grain, and doesn’t matter how shallow I set the blade. So I’m thinking it’s either something wrong with my sharpening, or with the way I’m putting it together. I don’t have a honing guide so am sharpening freehand on 240, 600 and 1200 grit sandpaper taped to a flat bathroom tile. I wondered if the angle was too steep so tried to sharpen again really trying for 25 – 30 degrees but it hasn’t made any difference. Should I buy a honing guide and try again? I’m fairly sure the lever cap and screw is set correctly – it’s definitely not too loose, if anything I set it too tight and had to loosen it to allow me to adjust the depth. Stanley Type 8 Handplanes date from 1899-1902. The “7-24-88” is the only patent date found on the lateral adjustment lever, and “STANLEY” is still there. The “S” casting marks are eliminated and replaced with “B.”Work through your problem logically. I think that this is a good little plane and it’s trying to tell you something…………… I don't often do this on old planes, but I figured this plane didn't look particularly old so it might be fun to make it look new again. I think the shiny bits turned out nice. We’re jumping to a lot of conclusions here: On the face of it the plane looks OK from the pictures. At least the base seems to be flat and unmarked. When you loosen the centre screw, remove it all very gently and look for any minute strands of wood between it and the blade. If you have any, there is work to be done because this fouling will always give a bad cut. Suitable for removing very fine shavings from a variety of wood types to leave a smooth finish, when used effectively, the “No. 4” Sweetheart™ Smoothing Bench Plane can produce a finish that equals or surpasses that made by conventional sandpaper.