Hengyijia 25mm F1.8 (Black) HD.MC Manual Lens for SONY E-mount NEX ILCE Camera

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The kit lens from either Lumix or Zuiko is excellent at wide to mid range - it only falls off in resolution near the 40mm zone. The kit has AF, anti-shake mechanics, signals distortion and vignetting correction to the camera body (and to programmes such as DXO if you shoot in RAW). So why buy a manual lens then? I have 15 (vers 1), 21/4, 28/1.9 and 35/2.5. They were bought for and continue to be used on Leica film cameras (M3 and III). Only the 28/1.9 is as good at the edges as the Fuji lenses ( it's a retrofocus design), the others have problems in the corners until stopped down, although they have other characteristics that some find attractive. The only digital cameras they work well on are the Leica Ms, because of their special sensors, and they are rather expensive! Actually there already are a variety of focal lengths available in this lens format. The Meike brand (same folks from China who have been making camera accessories) Have a group of small, manual focus APS-C lenses in E mount-2.0/50, 1.7/35, 2.8/28, 2.8/12, 3.5/8-and some, if not all, are also available under the Neewer brand. Mine arrived yesterday. Initial dinking around shows solid performance. I'll be trying it out at a concert tonight. I'll post results tomorrow. This lens is fully manual — there’s no auto focus (and no electronics) in this lens. Because there’s no electronic connection between camera and the lens, camera can’t actually detect that lens has been placed into the mount. To be able to shoot pictures with fully manual lens, you need to configure your Fuji camera to “shoot without lens” in the menu.

Here's a few samples from the Skerryvore concert I shot last night. Only PP was my standard NR and sharpening I use on all my concert photos, and some cropping. It's just a re-housed CCTV lens (like the 35/1.8 and 50/1.8) rather than a dedicated APS-C lens design like many of the later ones. It looks like the lable “ made in China” is no longer something photographers are too skeptical of. Latest comments, thoughts and reaction to our recently reviewed Photography Lenses, including the Irix 150mm f/2.8 Macro 1:1 Dragonfly Review. When I set my camera to ISO-Auto, the first option on the list, which takes 3 shots and combines them, and with f/1.8 I can really get some good night shots.It's certainly easier for me to find focus using peaking on my E-M1 as I did in the last group of images I posted, somewhat more difficult using my E-M5 since it doesn't have focus peaking (except a version of it as a workaround if one messes with the art filters which I've tried and it doesn't seem to be very helpful to me). I did try magnification when I used it with my GF1 for several shots a few days ago but the implementation of that particular focus assist on that camera was very unwieldy for me. One important thing to note is that as far as I know there are two versions of this lens. They are easy to distinguish, first generation has unusual placement of aperture and focusing ring — focusing ring is close to the camera body and the aperture ring is near the front lens element. Second generation has traditional ring placement — aperture ring close to body, focusing ring close to front of the lens. Design So for me - unless the 8cm gain in Dof with a headshot is a dealbreaker - my advice is get out your old film camera kit and have a go with the old technology before you pay up for a new lens ------- unless the vignetting, field edge distortion and "toy camera" look is what you want - but then, just add an online filter in post-processing and have a much more controlled version of the same.

Photography is not about the thing photographed. It is about how that thing looks photographed. Quote by Garry Winogrand I haven't really "tested" the bokeh, mainly because that's pretty low on my considerations in lens performance, but what I've seen through the finder has been smooth, with the 12 blade aperture providing those round blobs so many people adore, even when this lens is wide open. I read a review of the Pergear that made me think it was worth trying - but I ended up just getting the Fuji 23/2 instead, and a Meike 28/2.8 for when I want something smaller and MF. I love the Meike 28/2.8 it's one of the most underrated cheap MF lenses for Fuji and Sony right now.In the last few weeks, we covered a couple of new Chinese Fujifilm X mount lenses here on FujiRumors, such as the brand new 7Artisans 60mm F2.8 1:1 Macro and the Kamlan 50mm f/1.1 MK II. Finally, the metal bayonet mount is well made and the lens fits smoothly. There is absolutely no rotational play when the lens is mounted. Maybe I am a hard reviewer. Just being honest. I didn't just judge wide open. I posted just as many shots stopped down. And I just follow-up with with a stop down comparison all the way to F16. One of the main issue I have is the corners don't get much better until F8, which makes F2-F7 not very useful.

size - well this is where the 7-artisans wins - but, for manual control with a viewfinder the 7-artisans puts the control rings very close to the camera body. I find that a legacy lens with adaptor puts the aperture and focus rings exactly under my left hand fingers - so easier to use in practice.Editor's Choice - Superb performance from a classic prime lens, perfect for travel, street and architecture.

I love the image quality of this lens, but the autofocus is really slow, and always hunting. No problem for landscape photography, but this lens definitely isn`t a good choice for family photos, traveling, street photography... The only complaint I have is the focus scale, which is sufficiently at odds with the reality through the EVF to make scale/zone focus a non-starter. The barrel contains feet and metre distance engravings, progressing (in feet) from 0.6, 1, 2, 5, 16 and infinity markings. Subjects at approximately 5ft - pin sharp at f1.8 though the EVF - showed closer to the 16 ft than 5 ft markings, and the void between the two makes hyperfocal shooting a gamble. It's possible, but you'd have to work out your own sweet spot and most users will confirm distance through the viewfinder. I assume the discrepancy is the result of the same lens being produced for a variety of sensor formats. I bought the lens mainly for some "personal growth" projects where a manual "nifty fifty" will help force me to engage in a different workflow with certain subjects. These projects don't need AF anyway, and the slower approach this lens requires is part of the "method" involved in the work. I guess my problem is more that I can't distinguish when the colored outlines in focus peaking are most "in focus". The outer focusing ring does leave a little to be desired on this diminutive lens - but a bit more practice on my part might help with that. I wondered for some time if it could be some optical effect and not real bubble. But since Hengyijia copy arrived and it has nothing like that, it must be real. Lens hoodApochromatic lenses have special lens elements (aspheric, extra-low dispersion etc) to minimize the problem, hence they usually cost more. This section is actually quite lens-agnostic, but I’ll mention it anyway since it’s essentially my first “normal” manual lens.