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Posted 20 hours ago

32mm MDPE DZR Stopcock

£9.9£99Clearance
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Flat Panel Radiators Low Surface Temperature Radiators Towel Radiators Designer Towel Rails Dual Fuel Towel Rails Electric Towel Rails Towel Rails Given that we're planning to run two showers off a combi I guess we should probably reduce to 28 mm instead of 22 mm, run that to the 1st floor bathroom and then reduce to 22 mm for the en suite on 2nd floor? Boiler Flues & Accessories Boiler Flues Filling Loops Low Loss Headers Flue Guards Plume Kits Flashing Kits Boiler Spares Boiler Filters Commercial Boilers Showers Electric Showers Mixer Showers Power Showers Digital Showers Shower Doors Sliding Shower Doors Bi-Fold Shower Doors Pivot Shower Doors Shower Side Panels

STOPCOCK 32X28 | Wolseley PRESTEX PL59A GUNMETAL STOPCOCK 32X28 | Wolseley

I haven't done calcs yet but Barney mentions the possibility of running 28 mm from the HWS generator to first floor and then on in 22 mm to the second floor (we're running two showers off the boiler): It does seem a little strange to go all the way to the boiler in 28mm (or 22mm) only to reduce it on the boiler input to 15mm. but this is common .I presume this last restriction is not considered to have that much effect as long as the main run is sized correctly It is worth running large pipes to supply the combi with cold water, since that doesn't contribute to wasted hot water, and also other things such as the kitchen cold tap, toilets etc. will take water from that pipe, so if you have a large cold supply pipe, then the dynamic pressure drop at the combi input will be minimised when you're drawing off cold water to other things (e.g. if someone flushes the toilet, you don't want the DHW flow rate to suddenly drop). re. water supply , not sure why you'd need 28mm but makes sense not to starve/reduce potential flow to the combi DHW cold feed as djh says , to other take offs . so using a larger bore up to boiler would priorities the DHW cold feed. On domestic jobs I general do it in 22mm up to combi boiler.Solar PV Solar PV Panels Solar Panel Inverters Solar Panel Batteries Solar Panel Mounting Solar Panel Accessories

32mm MDPE to 22mm copper - General Plumbing Going from 32mm MDPE to 22mm copper - General Plumbing

Posted By: borpinI went from 32mm to 22 but wish I had gone to 28mm before splitting to H&C of 22mm. jamiehamy was there a reason for using a 32 mm MDPE supply instead of 25mm? Broadly the 25 MDPE pipe has the same internal diameter as 22 copper, and 32 MDPE as 28 copper. You aren't really supposed to expose MDPE to direct sunlight, so you'd normally go from MDPE to copper on entering the house.Radiators Central Heating Radiators Column Radiators Vertical Column Radiators Horizontal Column Radiators Designer Radiators Vertical Designer Radiators Horizontal Designer Radiators Yes, the DHW outlet for a domestic combi boiler will only be 15mm , generally most just T off as you said. I suppose you still could go straight into a 22mm manifold then off to appliance in 10-15mm if you felt there was some benefit with that setup. Baths Freestanding Baths Shower Baths Standard Baths Bath Panels Bath Screens Bath Taps Bath Wastes Bath Accessories Bathroom Furniture Vanity Units Bathroom Mirrors Bathroom Cabinets & Storage Electric Heaters Oil Filled Radiators Electric Radiators Fan Heaters Patio Heaters Convector Heaters Plinth Heaters Panel Heaters Pumps Central Heating Pumps Macerators Pump Accessories Shower Pumps Submersible Pumps Water Booster Pumps

Stopcock 15mm - Screwfix Flomasta Stopcock 15mm - Screwfix

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Sorry, after the original post, I've moved this to the "Plumbing: how to calculate appropriate sized pipes for dead legs" thread, where its more directly relevant... Fittings are tested and certified by major international approval institutions, including WRAS and KIWA But for all of this, you need to know your static and dynamic mains pressures, demand sizes, and do some pressure loss calcs, otherwise you're shooting in the dark (and may make your life difficult + waste money by over-sizing stuff). So I assume he's talking about running both hot and cold in (potentially) 28 mm here. So, question is, why would you do that if boiler inlet/outlet is smaller. So - given that I have a 32mm incoming anyway (and very good pressure), should I run 32mm or go down to 28mm? If noise issue materialise, then presumably I can do something to reduce the flow to the supply anyway? Or is it probably six and half a dozen?

Philmac Stopcock 32mm Black - Jewson

This is the problem with having lots of different threads on closely related subjects: I'm fairly sure Shevek said something about his lot wanting their own meter for monitoring purposes separate from the water company's one but maybe it was somebody else and I, for one, can't be bothered to search. Boilers Gas Boilers Gas Combi Boilers Gas Regular Boilers Gas System Boilers Electric Boilers Electric Combi Boilers Electric Flow BoilersShower Trays Rectangular Shower Trays Square Shower Trays Quadrant Shower Trays Offset Shower Trays Wet Room Shower Trays Pentangle Shower Trays Shower Tray Accessories Cylinders Vented Cylinders Direct Vented Cylinders Indirect Vented Cylinders Combination Cylinders Stainless Steel Vented Cylinders Copper Vented Cylinders Solar Vented Cylinders I think we'll then change to copper (not sure what size yet, probably determined by what kind of meter and softener we can get), then a drain off valve, then the meter. Are non-return valves still needed at the point of entry to the property? I know that there are now a load of reg for non-return valves near things like showers over baths (or more-so if near toilets), but I was under the impression that the requirement had been dropped for NR valves next to the stop tap (except in the case of a shared main - like in flats for example).

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