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The most obvious application for the DIYer or Home Improver, is in the Feather edged boards used for overlap fencing and panelling. Plasterers Trowels or floats come in a few sizes. Professional plasterers use longer, wider floats as they get paid by the amount they get on a wall in a day. The bigger the float, the more they get on! You will only need a standard float which is usually 11 inches by 4 inches wide. Use tapered or feathered edge plasterboard for dry lining Materials Used for Feathering out Plaster, Filler or Dry Wall Specially designed High Quality Aluminium section. Finely tapered for maximum accuracy.Strong construction with thumb and finger groove down full length of section
How flat and/or smooth should I be trying to get the wall with my trowel before using the feather edge to flatten. As a seasoned plasterer I naturally try to get it as flat as possible with the trowel.Feathers get less dense along their length Feather Edged Boards Used for Fencing and Garden Buildings To get rid of any surface bumps or lumps and finish with a totally flat surface, the chances are you will have to chisel off the lump and make good the hole with some filler. For larger areas that need feathering out, for example when you have inserted a door frame and filled in round the edges which may not then be flush with the existing plaster finish, or where a new section of wall meets and older one, you might want to look at something called Fill and Skim. A wide scraper or a taping knife will allow you to feather out filler neatly and disguise the lump, bum or hollow in your wall.
If you would like to know more about dry lining and errecting dry lined walls, see our project here. Feather out dry lining joints, filler or plaster with a taping knife or caulker Feathering out Dry Wall Plasterboard and Plasterboard Partitions Anything ad-hoc or out of the ordinary we are keen to help and our Managing director Phil Hall an avid inventor loves to solve tool based problems so lets give him a challenge!
Tools Used for Feathering out
Clearly it originates with the properties of an actual feather where the density is reduced both from the centre to edge in a horzontal direction, as well as getting thinner and less dense from top to bottom. Plasterboard partitions are (under normal circumstances) timber stud walls covered with plasterboard and then coated with skim plaster. You can see how to erect plasterboard partitions in our project here and also how to skim plaster the partiion once complete in our project here. By making sure the underside of the bow (the concave surface) faces the building, the bottom edge hugs the board beneath it really tightly when the board is fixed. This stops and water blowing up underneath the boards.
Most often these bumps etc are not very big at all but it really makes a difference to the finished job. Please note, it does not very often make the chip invisible and some fine surface filler can be placed into the chip to be smoothed out with a paint scraper. Use a fine sandpaper and rub the edges of the chipped edge hard so it slopes gently to the middle all round. This will give a flatter appearance.If you are attempting to feather out with filler, use some All-Purpose filler which can be pre or ready mixed. This will help you feather out well as the filler will be of the same consistency every time you use it. Feathering will not, in most cases, allow you to finish with a perfectly flat wall. If the bump is proud of the wall in the first place, as in our diagram above, then the best you can hope for is a surface, which to the naked eye, is flat. I battened off the large wall into smaller managable sections, followed the tips on here for preparing the substrate and getting the mix right and found it went on well (thanks everyone). I can get the wall looking pretty decent with just my trowel, but obviouly still need to remove the odd high spot and fill in the low spots.
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