Ideas from Massimo Osti

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Walling, J. (2005). The Mullard/Philips Research Laboratories,Redhill. A Short History 1946-2002. Redhill,Surrey,UK: Ruscombe Litho and Digital Printing Ltd. p.232

Used for the first time in the F/W 1996 collection by "Massimo Osti Production," this combination of wool and nylon jersey is wear-resistant and preserves the breathability, naturalness and durability of wool. What I like most of all is that Massimo put the words "Ideas From Massimo Osti" onto the branding of C.P.COMPANY. Whilst "Designed by~" is often used, I think he is the only one who used "Ideas From~". In fact, the designs themselves are taken from his own collection, but they are transformed into completely different clothes under his' Ideas'. That's what I found so fascinating about it. I particularly like the jumper from 1982 with the elbow patch and the action pleat design. The elbow patches and action pleats are supposed to be functional, but in this jumper they have been stripped of their function and placed for design purposes only. In fact, the elbow patches are made of knitted fabric when they should be made of leather. The pleats are also not functional, but he used colourways in such a way as to make them look like they were ‘action’ pleats. Naturally, some items are made with functionality in mind, but I think the idea of his clothes being made from various angles depending on the specific item itself has been passed down to the current C.P.COMPANY aesthetic. Design Museum announce shortlist for Brit Insurance Designs of the Year". Dezeen. 2010-01-18 . Retrieved 2023-08-09. It’s no wonder that Osti, with his love of all things functional, was drawn to the design and included it in his first collection for Stone Island. The piece differs from the original design by adding a hood and wide cuffs for additional elemental protection. It was also made from Tela Stella. I discovered that two different materials absorbed and reacted differently to the dye when dyed simultaneously, thereby creating interesting 'tone-on-tone' effects." This is the basis of garment dyeing, a process that revolutionized the entire industry at the time, both because of the unusual look it produced and because of the significant decrease in costs it represented.A nylon that’s soft to touch yet sturdy enough to withstand any conditions. The water-resistant outer shell is often bonded to a lightweight mesh to create a transitional fabric providing protection from the elements alongside maximum comfort. Main characteristics: each garment is dyed, instead of the materials they were made of. Interesting 'tone-on-tone' effects, and simplification of dyeing process. Through his work at the archive, Osti met Peter Wang, who’s Tristate Holdings company took control of CP Company in 2015, with Osti joining as a minority shareholder and marketing director. When Wang asked him to join CP Company, it was important to Osti that he was there for more than just his familial link. “For a long time I had a very conflicted relationship with my father’s heritage,” explains Osti. “He was a great innovator, everyone was in love with him but to them I was just his son, a projection from him.”

Phil Thornton, Casuals : Football, Fighting and Fashion : The Story of a Terrace Cult (Lytham: Lytham : Milo Books, 2003). By the mid-1970s, Osti began to move away from the graphics that defined his early work and towards an aesthetic that was very personal to him. As a collector of military surplus and vintage workwear, the former graphic designer became fascinated with the stories behind second-hand clothing and the personalities of the people who wore them –– it was this ‘worn-in’ look that he wanted to recreate in his own clothing. The fact that one of his first employees was a chemist (a move that was totally unusual for a clothing brand at the time) showcases how dedicated Osti was in chasing his vision. The discovery of garment dyeing – a process where whole garments composed of different fabrics and fibers are dyed in the same bath rather than constructed using individually pre-dyed and pre-cut fabrics – where each material reacts differently to the same dye getting interesting tone-on-tone color effects and broken-in textures were exactly what Massimo Osti was looking for. This technique revolutionized the industry not only because of its unique look and feel but also as it reduced wastage by eliminating leftover fabric. Philips Electronics N.V. (2000). New Nomads An exploration of wearable electronics by Philips. Rotterdam: 010 Publishers. p.146 Loaning out pieces from his collection to stylists and directors alike, Archie has supplied outerwear to leading global musicians, athletes and other important figures.

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Considering it’s made from a single piece of canvas, it would be hard to pass blame on someone who overlooked the Zeltbahn. Used by various armies through the 19th century, the simple but versatile canvas can be used in numerous ways. By the time Osti founded Left Hand, he had the entire design world looking to him for advice and inspiration. Osti launched Left Hand with the Allegri Company, a design agency he had previously worked with during the creation of Tela Stella and Raso Gommato. C.P. Company is an Italian apparel brand founded in 1971 by designer Massimo Osti. [1] Initially called Chester Perry by the suggestion of his fashion entrepreneur friend Corrado Zannoni, its name was changed in 1978 following a lawsuit by Chester Barrie and Fred Perry, for the use of their first name and surname. [2] Massimo Osti was a graphic designer turned fashion designer from Italy. He single handily changed the fashion industry with his unique dyeing techniques, materials and a drive for experimentation -It wouldn’t be wrong to call him an inventor.

William Routledge, Oh Yes, Oh Yes, We Are the PPS - Full-on True Stories of Preston North End’s Most Fanatical Followers (Kings Road Publishing, 2010), 103. C.P. Company’s most iconic fabric, the 50 Fili was developed by founder Massimo Osti during the early years and consists of a unique cotton and nylon weave that feels technical yet stays soft to the touch as it wears. Italian excellence: Emporio Armani and C.P. Company announce collaboration". wallpaper.com. 2021-12-16 . Retrieved 2023-08-09.Although the accompanying book is out of print the promotional films can be found here in two parts:

Sinclair, R. (2014). Textiles and Fashion: Materials,Design, and Technology . Amsterdam: Elsevier. p.367 In 2020 Left Hand was acquired by Left Hand Studio Limited, along with another of Osti's original brands, ST95. Walling, J. (2005). The Mullard/Philips Research Laboratories,Redhill. A Short History 1946-2002. Redhill,Surrey,UK: Ruscombe Litho and Digital Printing Ltd. p.234The first and incidentally most important scenario discussed in “New Nomads” is “nomadic working”. 20 Philips’ teams at Redhill recognized that the way in which we live and work is increasingly taking place in transient spaces, what anthropologist Marc Augé described as “non-places”, 21 to which individuals are connected in a uniform manner and where no organic social life is possible”. 22 A sort of transitory place where we occupy but, cannot live in, that we all recognize but, has no specific geographic markers. 23 It is precisely for non-places- Airports, highways, hotels, and supermarkets- that Philips’ was trying to design clothing and electronics for. Where Augé explained these non-places without much regard to the actual humans who have to occupy them, Phillips’ work at Redhill took a user centered approach stating “The traditional design disciplines are integrated with expertise from the human sciences and technology through a multi-disciplinary, research-based approach that makes it possible to create new solutions that satisfy and anticipate people’s needs and aspirations”. 24 A pair of editorial shots from New Nomads It would be hard to find a piece of modern clothing that wasn’t in some way influenced by Massimo Osti. His spirit continues to live through Stone Island and CP Company who are constantly developing on his works from thirty or more years ago but it would be criminal to forget his other works with brands such as Left Hand and Boneville.