Finish Line Wet Lube Cross Country Lubricant

Product Information

When it came to cleaning off the first application my chain was remarkably free from grot and filth. You would be forgiven for expecting this from a dry lube, after all that's what they are famous for. What they aren't renowned for is longevity. Getting both from one lube is a real bonus. Use WET Lube when you ride hard and long. Proven performance for 100-plus mile rides, muddy off-road conditions, long rainy commutes, and foggy salt-air coastal climates. A heavier, wet-style lubricant that requires a little more attention to drivetrain cleanliness, but delivers the ultimate in lubricity and protection."

It's simplest on a new/clean drivetrain, you just need to degrease/clean/dry the chain then wash in the hot wax. So there is some outlay in electric hotpot, thermometer, wax and degreasing/cleaning chemicals.FINISH LINE Starter Kit 1-2-3 - Grunge Brush w/4 oz Degreaser and 2 oz Dry Lube (On display in Maintenance » Cleaning Products)

If you’re a regular commuter or a year-round long distance cyclist, then a wet lube is going to be our tip for you. It will not only last longer but also handle any weather conditions. Thorough cleaning seems more important than choice of chainlube. You can wipe the chain down till you're blue in the face but the damaging grit is on the INSIDE.

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Tester Steph writes: “As a dry lube, it is designed for mixed riding, but mainly in dry conditions (it will work with the odd puddle or splash). The wax is supposed to wear off over time, and in the process of doing this, it leaves a cleaner chain by taking off any grime with it. Argus Tuft replied to hawkinspeter: Ta HP - I found it worked as well as the bought stuff.I've moved on to using a home made "candle" of wax with a dash of grease applied to a chain freshly warmed with a heat gun. Any dirt seems to fall away. No cleaning required. Use a suitable heat shield between chain and wheel. Having said that, chain cleaning is a lousy job, so I now use the insitu hot waxing described above. A friend of mine was doing that years ago, and suffered third degree facial burns when it caught fire as she was heating it. Be *very* careful.

One of the best recognised names in cleaning and maintenance products is Finish Line. They have been creating lubricants for over thirty years and are the go-to choice for pro teams such as Giant Factory Off-Road, BMC Racing and Trek Factory XC. Ultimately, Finish Line Wet remains a good bet for riders of all disciplines who are in need of a really stodgy lube that can cope with hell and, indeed, high water. VerdictAnd finally, I went into the LBS who had a nice window display of wheels, said "what have you got that will me make me a better climber?" The guy asked could I wait three weeks, I said OK, he gave me a diet sheet. And if you’re wondering why you can’t use WD40 or GT85, they’re water displacement products and should only really be used after cleaning your bike and before correct lubrication. They have some lubricating properties, and plenty of uses on bikes and round the house, but they're not up to the job of keeping a bike chain properly protected. I left the factory lube on like Sheldon Brown suggests, but after as little at 200 miles the chain was already 0.5% stretched. Oh boy, you wouldn't like how I got only 500 miles out of my last chain (Shimano HG40) before it was stretched 1%. That's with obsessive wiping after every ride. On a city bike. PRSboy: Squirt seems to be the holy grail of lubes, as long as you don't mind reapplying after a wet ride. I've been most impressed.