Panasonic LUMIX G II Lens, 20MM, F1.7 ASPH, MIRRORLESS Micro Four Thirds, H-H020AS (USA Silver)

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I was worried of using Panny on Oly assuming it would lose out on many things that only come with close integration of hardware and software. From your review it seems like a non issue. Sell the kit you’re not using to MPB. Trade in for the kit you need to create. Buy used, spend less and get more. Buy. Sell. Trade. Create. Autofocus is excellent. Very fast. And with the genial red AF assist lamp on the GF1 autofocusing in low light is easy. And no doudt as the Sensors, AF ect improve as they will over time, there will be little point for most owning a DSLR, all expect the pro’s. Also, as we found in our review, sharpness is excellent for a wide-angle – a little soft in the corners as is usual for a lens in this type, but not enough to seriously compromise images. Sharpness in the centre is absolutely top-notch. The lens is also sealed in eleven places, meaning you’ll have nothing to worry about from that late-night dew fall as you capture your astro images.

The Sigma 30mm f/1.4 DC DN delivers a 60mm equivalent field of view on MFT. Photo credit: Richard Sibley In our tests, we couldn’t really identify any color fringing in the images–which is a great thing for JPEG shooters that love to complain about this type of thing. But even for RAW shooters, this means that much less work in the post-production phase. Extra Image Samples Follow along as we jump into handling, AF behavior, and optical characteristics to find out if this lens is also a good choice for you. I do a lot of portraits when hanging out with friends. With the 20mm, I was pretty much obligated to switch to my 45mm for decent traditional portraits, which ended up with the 45mm being my most used lens. With the 25mm, thanks to the narrower angle of view and greater aperture contributing to less perspective distortion and more subject isolation, there are few occasions where I actually have to switch lenses. In fact, it's making me consider selling the 45mm to fund the 75mm, where there would be a larger FL and subject isolation difference against the 25mm. But of course, on the other hand, I have less of an ability to shoot landscapes and architecture in the crowded streets of NYC. For that I now use the wide end of my new 12-50 kit lens.

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The Sigma 56mm f/1.4 DC DN is part of a range of compact prime lenses designed for APS-C and Micro Four Thirds mirrorless cameras. With a bright f/1.4 aperture, this is a great portrait lens, giving a 112mm equivalent on Micro Four Thirds cameras. It’s also relatively compact, and would make a great choice for anyone needing to shoot in low-light conditions, or for portrait photography. Anyhow, the hallmark of any good nifty fifty, then and now, is a favorable ratio of quality to price. And Panasonic's modern take for Micro Four Thirds fits the bill nicely: though it's very affordable, it's capable of producing lovely images. Just one more thing: the GF1 is a very versatile camera with the possibility to use other manufactures’ lenses, i.e. with adapters you can add a variety of glass. As we noted in our review, it’s also not as sharp as other lenses, particularly at the telephoto end of the lens. This is often the case with super zoom lenses. We found it highly enjoyable to use, even if it did struggle noticeably in low light. Pros Unfortunately, your options are fairly limited if wanted to save money, but still wanted a splash resistant lens. There is the Sigma 16mm f/1.4 that claims to have seals. I have this lens because like you I was looking for something in my sweet spot (15-17mm) that was cheaper than a pro lens. I use this lens in my steampunk camera box, where part of the time I want a fast lens, and the other part of the time, I need splash resistance. Sigma claims it is splash proof, but is it? I haven't taken it out in wet conditions, so I don't know. Also, unlike the Olympus 20mm f/1.4 or PL 25mm, the Sigma 16mm is a big lens, weighing 405g and 92mm long compared to 205g and 63mm for the PL lens.

Yes, the days of everyone and their neighbor owning a big DSLR may soon be over. We are finally getting smaller cameras with the quality of the big guys. All we need is some minor improvements and some better glass (for m4/3). Today we have the m4/3 cameras, the fabulous Leica X1 and M9 and even the new Samsung NX10 that is about to hit the streets. It’s awesome to have these choices, and for those who are like me and tired of lugging around 20 lbs of gear, well you now have quality choices! The Laowa 7.5mm f/2 MFT looks the part with retro-styled Olympus cameras. Photo credit: Andy Westlake Even when shooting with the included lens hood attached, artifacts from lens flare can be pretty distracting with this lens. You may notice ghosting when shooting directly into the sun, usually manifesting as a multiple-color haze or purple blobs. We can expect to see more Micro Four Thirds cameras and lenses in the future, including likely an OM-System OM-10. It’s safe to say the format has a future for now. FAQ: Will Olympus Micro Four Thirds lenses fit Panasonic?

Panasonic Lumix G 20mm F/1.7 Pancake Lens Specifications

However, I bought a used Panasonic 100-300mm mark II lens, and I mounted it on my Panasonic G85. This is Panasonic to Panasonic, so gasket size should not matter. I took it out on a whale watch in the north Atlantic on a large commercial boat. Normally we don't get large splashes, but this time we did. When I got to the car and I used the distilled water I bring with me to clean the gear ASAP, the Olympus E-m1 mark I worked fine. The Olympus 14-150mm mark II that I had on the E-m1 mark I worked fine. The Panasonic G85 worked fine. The Panasonic 100-300mm mark II would not turn on. You work out a lens’ full-frame equivalent focal length by multiplying the crop factor by the actual focal length. With Micro Four Thirds, the crop factor is 2, so working it out is quite easy – simply double the stated focal length. A 35mm lens mounted to a Micro Four Thirds camera will provide an effective field of view of 35×2, which is 70mm. My LUMIX GF1 (white ivory, with the pancake lens) arrived just 10 days ago, and I am absolutely happy with it. I agree in full with your comments regarding the pancake lens. It is certainly in the forefront of glass in kits. It is maybe a bit unfair to compare with LEITZ lenses, but it fares very well indeed also in comparison with them, given that their lenses (and cameras) play in a different league /price range. The Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-45mm f/4 PRO lens is designed to be a compact, but high-quality zoom lens, giving a useful 24-90mm equivalent. It weighs in at just 254g, making this very light, and at 7cm long, it’s also compact. It’s smaller than the 12-40mm f/2.8 lens, whilst also offering slightly more telephoto reach. As a PRO lens it is weather-sealed, making it suitable for shooting in poor weather conditions. This Panasonic 25mm F1.7 is fairly sharp across the focal plane, wide open. And even on the highest resolution 20MP Four Thirds sensors, its resolving power should leave most users satisfied.

Micro Four Thirds is often readily dismissed in conversations about astrophotography, mainly due to the smaller sensor size of the cameras. However, the system has a lot going for it when it comes to shooting the night sky. Newer Olympus and OM-System cameras, in particular, feature ‘Starry Sky AF’, an innovative system designed to help achieve pin-point focusing accuracy on distant stars. The smaller sensor size of the Micro Four Thirds camera sensors incurs what’s called a crop factor. This refers to the ratio of the sensor size to a full-size full-frame sensor – a sensor with a smaller imaging area incurs a smaller field of view where the edges of the image appear to be chopped off, or cropped. In turn, this causes lenses to provide a narrower field of view than they otherwise would. With an equivalent range of 16-50mm, the Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 8-25mm f/4 PRO lens is a very useful wide-angle walk-around lens. As we noted in our review, it delivers the goods optically throughout its zoom range – it really is sharper than sharp – and Olympus’s ‘PRO’ designation means that build quality is also premium. It’s a lens that feels good to hold and use. Micro Four Thirds is the oldest mirrorless system, having been around for more than 15 years at this point. The original advantages of the system included the portable dimensions of its cameras and lenses. They stood in stark contrast to the DSLRs that were popular at the time – however, these days, with mirrorless systems in their ascendancy, the difference is less clear-cut. A full-frame Sony setup or an APS-C Fujifilm setup won’t be all that much bigger and heavier than a Micro Four Thirds setup using top-end Panasonic or OM-System kit. NOTE: My processing when I mainly used my 20mm was quite different, but I think the lens characteristics still come through. None of these shots were with hoods, so I'm not considering how that may affect contrast.It is undeniably a expensive lens, though it costs less than you’d pay to get the equivalent on a Canon, Nikon or Sony full-frame camera. For shooting portraits on an MFT camera, it’s pretty much a no-brainer to save your pennies for the Leica DG Nocticron 42.5mm f/1.2 ASPH Power OIS, with one note of caution. In our review, we found that on some Olympus cameras, the lens’ aperture ring refused to work. While body-aperture controls worked as normal, meaning it was perfectly useable, it did make the lens less enjoyable to handle. Pros

If you want to get extreme close-up images, this is a hell of a lens to do it with. The equivalent focal length of 180mm and the 2x macro magnification make it exceptionally powerful for filling the frame with tiny subjects. To get something anywhere approaching that in a full-frame system, you’d require a much heavier, and significantly more expensive lens.BOTTOM LINE. With this little Panasonic 20 1.7 lens you have a high quality lens THAT WILL NOT BREAK THE BANK. You can do low light, shallow depth of field, and get great results. I say this as a hobbyist, not a pro. For 90% of what I shoot if I had to choose between the E-P2 and 20 1.7, D300s or Canon 7D then it would be the E-P2. Throw in the Leica X1 and I would have to take the X1 as I feel the IQ of the X1 beats all of the mentioned DSLR’s and the E-P2/20 combo, and its even smaller and sleeker. But I think I am done with all of those big DSLR’s for good. I really have no need for 8FPS shooting or 999 focus points. EDUCATION: Chris graduated Magna Cum Laude from Adelphi University with a degree in Communications in Journalism in 2009. Since then, he's learned and adapted to various things in the fields of social media, SEO, app development, e-commerce development, HTML, etc.