Gogarth North

Product Information

A strenuous and technical route up a line of thin flakes on the right wall of The Hustler. Somewhat superseded by Mestizo.

Step down and teeter left along the obvious ledge into a groove (on Mammoth) and up this to a small ledge. Go left across the steep wall on the obvious line of holds, or down and left (indirect, but a little easier) into Citadel. Up this to small ledges on the left. Across these and up a short corner ( Graduation Ceremony) then move left across a very sloping ledge, around an outside corner to a large sloping ledge and belay. Atmospheric and inspiring action shots from the best climbing photographers including: Ray Wood, Mike Hutton, Al Hughes and Tony Loxton

Flytrap

Ffynnon Gaseg. Literally "Mare's well", this spring was revealed at the side of the road, about halfway round and near the highest point, during the construction of the Marine Drive in the 19th century. It was ideally situated to refresh the horses on the five-mile carriage drive round the base of the Great Orme.

Aris, Mary (1996). Historic Landscapes of the Great Orme. Carreg Gwalch, Llanrwst Wales. ISBN 0-86381-357-7. A marvellous excursion at a reasonable grade through territory usually reserved for much harder routes, It traverses above the big sea cave and continues the traversing theme across Spider Wall. Start as for Ipso Facto below the easy wall 15m left of the huge arch. The foot of the slab and the start of the sea level traverse is reached by following the path from the descent gully.

Basic Booking Terms

Ed Drummond, Ben Cambell Kelly, 8 points aid. (Al Evans on an earlier attempt) Climbed over 5 days. March 69. Ffynnon Llech. A spring of water in Ogof Llech, a cave on the headland which is very difficult to access. It is claimed to have been used as a hermitage by Saint Tudno, a sixth-century monk of Bangor-is-y-Coed who established the first church here. Having climbed quite a few of these routes at Forywn and Gogarth pre and post pegging I think the new pegs work well and could also work well in some places in Scotland.

UKC management - is the Scotland round up still a thing? Theres so much top end climbing going on (and being reported on UKC) I find myself feeling unintentionally underwhelmed by it. Maybe I'm just looking for more easily relatable news - I'm not sure Im alone there though? If you weren't on the scene you'd be forgiven for thinking the only exploratory/exciting activity was in Dave, Ian and Robbies new E8's.. Ken? I recall Dave M and Kev H did a round up in the past.Pitch 3. The final climbs up from the belay before traversing across an overhanging slab. It then weaves its way through sensational terrain, delicate down climbs and crossing grooves until stepping onto a slab which is further traversed until climbing the exit groove with an aluminium peg at its base. Top of pitch 1 belay is now bomber (May 2012): 3 brand new pegs with rings to ab from. Thanks to whoever re-equipped it. Alan Rouse on the crux pitch of Positron, going for it with a MOAC nut in his teeth. It was do or fly, with friend Pete Minks belaying while offering foul-mouthed encouragement. Knowing these lads made it all the more exciting, knowing how well they climbed made the route bolder. I wanted some of that. I wanted to boldly go where no man had gone, I wanted to laugh in the face of danger. Or at least nervously giggle. Even if today I am a reasonable climber, I judge my true worth by climbing a cliff like Gogarth.