Infinity Dodecahedron, Creative and Cool Infinite Dodecahedron Color Art Light Night Light, Spiral Space LED Light Adjustable Color Light, Furniture Decoration Table lamp Soft Dimmable Lighting (A)

Product Information

Grab the controller PCB, the Wemos D1 Mini, and the 74HCT125N (ignore the headers in the picture above, you do not need them).

You should use the mirrored sides as the outer faces of the dodecahedron. The outer faces are more likely to get smudged with epoxy. This is okay with the mirrored sides because you can use acetone to dissolve and wipe away the epoxy. However, using acetone on pure acrylic tends to fog it up. Please note that the inside faces will be inaccessible once the dodecahedron is fully assembled. DeepLight® 12 units are art pieces intended for display in a single location. They are not intended to be used as mobile installations or at high-stress / high-risk environments such as music festivals. Frequent assembly and disassembly will cause wear. Once dodecahedron is fully finished, the strips are covered up, leaving no way to access them. So you should test it now. Skip over to the Code step to get the controller working, then return here. I've attached the guide as both an image and a PDF to this step (also on my Github). To make it more intuitive, it should be assembled into a dodecahedron as pictured using the following steps:

Table Lamp

Once all edge covers of a joint are in place, you can glue the cover for the joint in place. Apply a small dab of glue and push the cover in place. The triangular cover should be placed as shown in the photo's. In the images there is a drawing of the shape of each rhomboid if you want to cut them by hand. There is also a dxf file for a single unit and a full sheet that can be cut on a 300x400mm laser cutter. The first step is to sand the visible face. With 180 grit sandpaper on a table, I sanded all parts facing down. Sanding is done when the entire surface seems sanded. If it still shines, it needs more sanding. The 3D printed parts facing the printbed too hours to clean. I spent around 6 hours just sanding over a week to clean the parts. It looks great, but I rather have a design that looks great without hours of sanding, so with the visible side facing up on the printbed. Alternatively I could try and use a printer with a better bed.

Strip, insert, and solder the wires into the through-holes in the base PCB as pictured. Refer to the guide to make sure you place the wires correctly. Depending on how many strands your wires have, you may need to trim a few away to get them through the holes. If you cannot easily get them through, switch to 26Ga stranded wire.To prep, make sure you are in a dust-free environment and that you hands are clean. You do not want to allow any dust or grime to get under the mirror film when you apply it. Each strip has the 5V and GND connected to the next one. This is not an exact science, and I simply soldered the ground and 5V of each strip to the nearest already powered strip I could find. Try to avoid ground and power loops, where there are several paths ground can take. Only connect 5V and ground when you are sure that one of the sides is not connected. Also be sure which side is 5V and which side is ground. Depending on the orientation of the strip, these can be flipped.