Nikon SB-910 Speedlight Unit

Product Information

Because of the way the focal plane shutter works in DSLRs, shutter speed doesn’t affect our flash exposure … while we don’t go over maximum flash sync speed. When we go into high-speed flash sync, our flash output drops. (The linked article there explains it thoroughly.) The Nikon SB-400 is another very basic flash unit. It is very similar to the SB-300, except it only allows the head to be tilted 90 degrees upwards (which is pretty limiting). It also won’t work in master/commander or slave/remote modes. Just like the SB-300, it cannot rotate side to side either, making it impossible to bounce the light off walls and other vertical surfaces, unless the camera is positioned in a vertical orientation. The SB-400 has a faster recycle time than the SB-300, lasts longer and is slightly larger in size. Nikon’s i-TTL is also fully supported, except for High Speed Sync and AF Assist. The Nikon SB-400 has been discontinued, so your only option is to buy it used. This is a half-stop less than advertised, which ia actually quite impressive, as all previous Japanese flashes have measured a full stop less than advertised, so the SB-910 actually has a half-stop more power than I expected. In all practicality, the SB-910 runs a long time and recycles immediately as it's actually used in its automatic modes. Almost no one buys SB-910s to run at full-power in manual mode all the time, but I still feel scammed. The intensity of the flash unit is determined by its watts, and it emits light in proportion to its watts.

Even though the distance scale shows we’re losing some power when we shoot at maximum flash sync speed with the Nikon SB-900 and SB-910, in my view this doesn’t have as much impact as one would expect, and I’ll continue choosing maximum flash sync speed as a good starting point when using flash in bright ambient light. It seems the only way to do that, and indeed the way I do it, is to use a manual wireless trigger, and set the settings on the flashgun. The Godox X1R-N receiver talks to your SB910 using Nikon's TTL protocol so the SB910 must always be set to TTL mode when mounted on the X1R-N. Set the SB910 just like you would to use it in TTL while in the camera's hot-shoe. If you’re using a Nikon DSLR (D7000 series or higher) and Nikon Speedlight (SB-500 and up), you’ll be able to synchronize the flash to shutter speeds all the way up to the highest possible setting. Hss: Auto Fp High-speed Sync Thank you again! The part I do not understand is that if I am using a transmitter and two receivers. Why am I unable to have the Godox transmitter adjust the flashes level without doing a preflash. I can't just plug in whatever level I want the speed lights to fire at without a pre-flash? It seems like you would only need a pre-flash if wanting the flash level to be calculated by the camera. What purpose does a pre-flash meet by firing on a manually set power level for the speed light? Shouldn't the power level information be sent from transmitter to receiver via the radio wave and not by light? I feel like I am missing something as that does not make sense to me.The included carrying cases are also different. SB-900 has a more elongated pouch, whereas the case of SB-910 is closer to a square-shaped on. Depending on how you use the case, you might prefer one or the other. We mostly use these cases for storage, so it does not make much difference to us, but if you use such a pouch on you belt, SB-900's case is a better choice.

Run through those settings and see how your distance scale changes. With flashguns other than the Nikon SB-900 and SB-910, there is a linear change as you change the shutter speed / aperture combination. For every two stops change in aperture, the distance will double. There are plenty of alternatives for the Nikon SB-910, and I am just going to compare it with 2 third-party flash units to illustrate my point – The SB-910 is grossly overpriced. Even the newer SB5000 is priced at around the USD500 mark. Taking the aperture to f/5 to give a third stop more exposure, to bring it in line with the exposure we had for 1/100 it would appear that the loss in power for 1/100 to 1/250 is around 1/3rd of a stop, or even less. These are the number of full-power dumps Nikon claims you can get if you wait as long as 30 seconds for it to recycle. In actual automatic use, you'll get thousands of flashes depending on your distance, since less power is used for each pop. Nothing interesting on both sides too, just the battery compartment – Takes 4 AA batteries. But know that the head rotates around 180° and is able to tilt from -7° to 90°.In the first instance- we are talking about wireless TTL triggers- they also allow manual control, and flash exposure comensation and a whole lot besides. These require the flash to be in ttl mode- even if ttl is not being used- one sets the manual settings on the control unit. Whatever the mode, a Nikon gun will fire a preflash. The Godox X1T-N transmitter is where you select either TTL or manual power for the flash operating mode for what ever group you have assigned to your SB910.

Nikon Speedlight SB-900 is known as a great flash gun loaded with an excellent set of features, but unfortunately, it tends to overheat when pushed hard enough. (Please refer to our Nikon overheating test.) Building on the success of the newer technology employed by Speedlight SB-700, Nikon has released Speedlight SB-910. There are two sequences shown here. The first is for the Nikon D4, and just for good measure, the Nikon D700. The results remain consistent between the two cameras. At 1/200 we’re seeing a slight drop compared to 1/100 but not significant. Less than 1/3rd of a stop. This professional SB-910 is aimed at full-time sports and news shooters who need as much power as fast as possible, and are bouncing it, using diffusers, and shooting at much longer distances than the rest of us shoot our family photos. Personally, I prefer the tiny Nikon SB-400 since I want a small flash for use as fill-flash, and velcro my own gels over the flash as needed. WG-AS1, WG-AS2 and WG-AS3 water guards. Depending on which camera you're using, these things try to seal the camera's hot shoe from water when using this flash.I hope so, because if it doesn't, those videos on youtube of professional photoshoots with it cause me to scratch my head in confusion. TTL is essentially a method of automatically setting the exposure and flash intensity by firing a nearly imperceptible pre-flash, taking an exposure reading, and adjusting the settings.