Can O Worms Worm Farm Full Package

Product Information

Harvesting of castings (worm poo) is easy because the worms eat their way up leaving their rich castings behind which are readily removed, free of worms. Liquid fertiliser is also produced and dispensed through a tap. Maintenance for a can o worms worm farm is made easy, as harvesting the castings from worms is trouble-free. How? After the red wigglers have eaten mostly everything on the first tray, and have already produced their castings, they will then go up the next food source (the next tray). They will then have to leave behind their castings. You can just easily remove the first tray and harvest the castings from there, without having to disturb or remove the worms from the composter. things to avoid – onions and members of the onion family, the skin of raw citrus fruit, cooked they are ok, you will often see “advice” that this is because it turns the wormery acidic, it is not, if you really want to know read up about a substance called d-limonene and why it is in citrus fruit skin.

Alternatively, if the weather is warm and dry, spread the contents of the wormery thinly over a polythene sheet. Cover the centre of the compost with layer of wet newspaper. As the compost dries, the worms will move towards the cool, moist compost under the newspaper from where they can be collected. Once emptied, and the worms separated, the wormery can be filled with a new layer of bedding, the worms returned. Do your bit for the environment. “Reduce, Re-Use, Recycle” - it’s easy. We just have to make the commitment. The idea is that the 1st tray will contain worms with the organic material mixed in with it. The worm will start decomposing the organic waste into wormcast. Once the 1st tray is full, a second tray will be added on top of the 1st tray, and once again food will be added. The Tumbleweed Can-O-Worms is a medium-capacity worm farm suitable for beginners to experienced users. The appearance of the bin has an appealing design. Yet in my view the round shape does not make the best use of space. For instance it does not fit snug against a straight wall. In addition to this, whenever you cover up food with newspaper or cardboard, you will never be able to tear it perfectly to fit along the rounded sides. This can be a bit annoying. The Tumbleweed Round Worm Blanket makes life easier.

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Dairy products, fat, grease, meat, fish and bones as these are likely to attract unwanted pests and flies Food scraps will break down and excess will start fermenting and heating up. Too much acidity and heat is bad for the worms so adding a pH buffer is highly recommended. Powdered eggshells or garden lime / dolomite are perfect and free/cheap. The micro-organisms

Compost / worm farm conditioner or Lime Mix which Balances the PH levels of your worm farm and helps the worms to digest larger quantities of food, reducing odours and controlling pest infestations. Worms will feed at a faster rate once they have adapted to any new food source. Worms will also eat more if food waste is cut into small pieces, mashed or processed. Controlling temperatures to around 70 degrees F (24 degrees C) will improve the overall performance of your system. Worms will leave very acidic food such as onions and orange peels until after they have eaten their preferred foods. A handful of garden lime (or crushed eggshells, oyster shells, or ashes from a fire) every few weeks will help to balance the effect of acidic foods. The regular addition of worm fattener (the recipe includes agricultural lime and is included in the Can-O-WormsTM instruction booklet) will encourage stronger, fatter worms. Since they consume up to half their own body weight each day, the fatter they are the more wastes they will eat.I will monitor the moisture of the bin on a daily basis the first couple of days and see if the worms are happy to be collected by the client this weekend. Once the top tray’s full, swap it round with the empty middle tray and start filling that instead. The worms will migrate up through the holes to where the food is, leaving the full tray empty of worms and ready for collection. Repeat this process each time the active tray becomes full up. Worm tea or worm wee makes a nutritious liquid feed for your plants Using Worm Compost and Worm Wee Worm feed and treats, why? they are perfectly happy with proper food in the form of your waste so why spend money on treats? – myth This depends on how many worms you have. Worms can eat up to half their own body weight every day and can double their population every few months. If you start your Can-O-WormsTM with 1kg. of mature worms. Under ideal conditions 1kg. of worms will consume approximately 5kgs. of paper and food waste per week. (identify mature worms by a distinct ring shaped swelling around their body) they will consume up to half a pound of food waste per day. After a few months you should have double your population and you can feed them more. The baby worms, however, won't eat much and will take about 3 months to mature. As you become familiar with them you will learn their rate of food consumption. Not usually. The Can-O-WormsTM is designed to break down soft organic waste. Slow composting organic wastes, such as garden refuse are best dealt with by conventional aerobic composting methods. After conventionally composting, the worms will convert the material to worm castings and vermicompost for you.

The Tumbleweed Can-O-Worms is a medium-capacity worm farm suitable for beginners to experienced users. Once established, the Can-O-Worms will process 3-4kg of kitchen scraps every week. Now your problem seems to be that the worms are not going to the next level up, but instead the next level down. Without seeing your wormery I can not determine the reason why they are doing this, but there are a few common explanations. Wormcast is slightly toxic to wormsDrain the liquid off from the bottom tray whenever it collects. This nutritious liquid, often known as worm tea or worm wee, is a super elixir for your plants. Stir one part of the liquid into ten parts water before using. Level 4 - Third Working TrayRepeat the procedure as for the Second Working Tray (Level 3) until the Third Working Tray (Level 4) is filled to above the plastic ribs with worm castings. When you have reached this stage, most of the worms will either be in Level 4 or Level 3. You can then take out the first Working Tray (Level 2), (which should have hardly any worms in it at all) and use the rich worm castings in your garden. Once you have emptied this First Working Tray (Level 2) it goes to the top becoming the new Third Working Tray (Level 4) and you start add-ing scraps to begin the process all over again. Since switching to the bokashi stuff the worms don't seem interested, in fact they're hardly moving into tier 2 and 3, preferring to stay in tier 1. Fat, meat and oils are to be avoided, some that are “recommended” but we do not advise are tea bags, the tea is fine but the bag is usually man made and will not decay, another one often “recommended” the contents of the vacuum cleaner! don’t worms do not eat hair and bits of plastic etc that have gone up the spout. As recommended in the article I used hessian to cover the worms in the box (that was my interpretation) to find I had a few worms entwined in the weave of fabric and nearly garrotting themselves so decided to opt for a layer of thin brown card instead.