Joined in 2023 
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In an effort to save money, I’ve tried a lot of different approaches to basing models. See my post on 3D printing bases. Place your base upside-down on the cork sheet and draw around it with a pen. Then carefully remove the excess cork from around the circle. There’s no need to use a knife for this - doing it by hand will result in a rougher texture, which is exactly what you want. Next you’ll need to keep removing small chunks of cork from your circular piece until you have a shape that you like. I’ve seen people using base clippers for this job, but I just roughly prised the chunks off with my thumbnail like a savage. You do you! Also, hang onto those cork crumbs for later. When you’re happy, superglue the cork to your base. There are a lot of Citadel paints out there, and it can be quite overwhelming for someone new to the hobby. Therefore, I started this thread hoping that, as a community, we can figure out which of the Citadel paints are essential. Lahmian Medium (Mix your base and layer paints with this to make custom washes, or thin down shades with it) If you can get past that, citadel paints are not this devil's invention many of us here in dakka consider them to be.
On the Eradicators, I wanted to do something a little different with their melta rifles. The barrels are painted Brass Scorpion, then Sycorax Bronze, washed Seraphim Sepia, and then some Brass Scorpion re-layered at the business end of the barrel. This is a lazy way to simulate the heat-staining effect you can see on the studio models. I did a similar thing on the engines for the Outrider’s bikes.Adeptus Mechanicus – The Adeptus Mechanicus is an army of tech-priests and their machines, and Astrogranite Debris can be used to create a weathered, battle-worn look for their equipment and vehicles. This is as far as I’ve gotten with the box. Next up from me is most likely going to be the bikes, which I’m extremely excited for as they’ll bring a nice bit of mobility into my army. At this point I’m not expecting any of the remaining models to be substantially different to what I’ve already painted up; the Bladeguard are the most complicated units remaining and I’ll be approaching them very similarly to how I painted up my Captain and Lieutenant. Raf’s Method Guilliman Flesh / Fyreslayer Flesh / Darkoath Flesh (CONTRAST) (This will accomplish all of your lighter skin tones.) In our How to Paint Everything series, we take a look at different armies of the Warhammer universe, examine their history and heraldry, and look at several different methods for painting them. With the recent release of the Indomitus boxed set, we’re looking at the two factions involved and how to approach painting them. Today, we’re looking at the new Space Marines!
Premixed sanded tile grout comes in many colors. If you don’t want to paint your bases, you can simply buy the color you like. For example, you can buy an ivory colored grout for sand bases, or a white colored grout for snow bases. RELATED: ESSENTIAL BASING MATERIALS FOR MINIATURES AND MODELS Agrellan Badland is another popular citadel technical paint. Adding textured surfaces to your painted miniatures creates atmosphere and context, which helps immerse your viewer. While most of my collection is citadel, by branching out I've found much more user friendly and better paints out there. That being said, citadel do some paints really well and others not so much. Although I love what Games Workshop has produced for us hobbyists, I feel like in some cases, there are other ways get the same effect for less investment. But, there are three good reason for why Citadel textured products are popular and worth the investment. Simplicity, efficiency, and reliability.In my opinion, Citadel Technical Paints are worth it if you’re looking for a way to add unique effects to your models without having to use complicated techniques or materials. They are fast to use. I threw the last one in there because I thought I should try the old school approach rather than all these fancy technical paints, just to be sure.
The little 'cup' on the cap is well thought out in terms of usability, but 1. when you shake it, there's just so much paint trapped in the cap that 1.a. it gets messy when it begins to drip 1.b. it gets all over the rim when you close it, which is also exacerbated by the little trapezoid shaped nub that helps keep the cap open (which serves its function well, but is ABSOLUTELY terrible when closing it) just splatters the paint all over if you don't get past it properly, and the snap from closure of the cap splatters the amounts of paints as described in 1.a and 1.b everywhere. Personally I didn’t add grass tufts just to underscore the bleakness of the battlefield. But you certainly could add some here and there for variance. Purity seals in Waagh Flesh, Warboss Green, and Skarsnik Green on the wax, with the parchment being Rakarth Flesh and then Ushabti Bone This is also pretty easy to do for flying bases too. On those what I do is I cut a hole for the flying stand beforehand — just place the stand on the cork sheet and trace out the cross shape with a pencil, then cut it out with a hobby knife. Then I paint the thing as normal and glue the stand into the hole.
Like I said before, each brand does different things. Where GW really shines I think are the Contrast and Technical paints, but those are really contextual to what you're planning to paint so hard to frame as 'essential'. Like Typhus Corrosion is great, but might not see much use if you're painting Ultramarines.
In general, there are two kinds of Citadel Texture Paints. Games Workshop makes these two textures in different colors, but in general, they function in just two classifications. Maybe you’re looking to find a cheaper replacement for Stirland Mud or my favorite, Agrellan Badlands.For me, these are some of the paints that I use most often. Keep in mind that most color schemes will require a few certain paints, such as Death Guard Green for the Death Guard, or Blood Angels Red for the Blood Angels. Roads are an integral part of the urban environment and great for showing scale. On some of my larger bases, particularly Chaos Knights, I add torn-up roads to both create more of an urban feel and also give the model a sense of scale. These bases look fantastic when I get to play on my own terrain, and even when I’m not using it the matching color splashes across the army ties everything together nicely.
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