Marley Bathroom Extractor Fan 5 Inch 5" In-line Ventilation Without Timer Flexible Ducting Kit Included Wall or Ceiling Mounted Kitchen Bathroom Shower Wet Room WC

Product Information

If you are using a standard 3-pole pull cord switch, the switch is generally fixed to the ceiling and wired down from the top. However, this is normally when it’s being installed in an upstairs bathroom and there is decent access to the top of the ceiling from the loft. As with all electrical work, before anything is done at all, make sure that the circuit being worked on is fully isolated in the fuse box or consumer unit. To do so, either pull out the fuse or turn off the MCB. Once capped over any chases are then filled using a suitable type of filler or plaster. Once dried it can then be sanded flat with the surrounding surfaces and then finally painted. As with the steps above, either a shower isolator switch is used that is normally installed outside the bathroom above the door or it’s possible to use a 3-pole pull cord switch that is usually installed in zone 3 inside the bathroom. Despite this, if you are unfamiliar with working on and around electricity then you are better off getting the pros in to do it for you! Wiring a Timed Extractor Fan Switched on by its Own Switch

Next, the fan itself needs to be installed. How this is done will depend entirely on what type of fan is being installed. This wiring diagram shows an easy to follow configuration for a bathroom extractor fan fitted with a timer, that’s not going to be turned on by the existing light switch. Instead, we are going to install a new switch that will turn the fan on and off.However, if you are simply replacing an existing extractor fan because it’s broken down or failed then you are allowed to do this under Part P. Once the fan is positioned, the next task is to get it wired up. A suitable length of cable is cut to run from the 3-pole switch out to the fan. When it comes to the cable that should be used, as extractor fans are low voltage it’s possible to use 1mm or 1.5mm cable. Also, for timed unit extractor fans, as there is an extra cable you can use 3 core and earth, however if wiring a standard fan with no timed switch, 2 core and earth is fine. As we have stated above, if an extractor fan is being installed from scratch then this will need to be done by a qualified Part P registered electrician. However is you are simply replacing an existing broken unit then you are able to do this yourself.

An extractor fan is an essential part of any bathroom as it helps to remove the excess moist and humid air produced by the shower and keep any condensation build up to a minimum. In terms of each end when installing an inline fan, you will need both internal and external extractor fan vents. Again, if you are working on the ground floor then you may need to pop up some floor boards from above to run cables and access existing lighting circuits. It must also be possible to isolate the fan by means of a pull cord switch inside the bathroom, or a fan isolation (3-pole) switch outside of the bathroom.A larger diameter hole (stated in the instructions) is drilled in the ceiling above the shower, bath etc. and the vent is inserted and fixed up after the end of the pipework is fixed. The same is done at the other end in a suitable location to vent the moist air, normally through a soffit closer or fascia board. If however an axial fan (one through the wall) is being installed this will need to go on an outside external wall.

Firstly the supply from the 3-pole isolator switch should be connected in to the junction box using a suitable 1mm or 1.5mm twin and earth cable to the L, N and E terminals. There are other ways to achieve this where the junction box connections are housed within the 3-pole isolation switch, but that is more complicated to explain and increases the chances of something going wrong. We have concentrated on the actual wiring in this section, rather than the other elements of the installation. If you want to know about these, simply work through the steps in the section above. If you are installing an axial through the wall type fan then you may need to run a short section of pipe between the inner and outer sections so that it bridges the cavity as you don’t want to be pumping moist air down into your empty cavity as this will cause untold amounts of issues. Extractor Fans with an integral timer or timed switch need a 3-core and earth supply to allow the unit to run on after a light is switched off.If this is in a ground floor bathroom, you may need to pull up some floor boards to access and wire up.

Once isolated, the next job is to install the fan isolation switch/3-pole switch. Where this is done will depend on the switch you have. Another point to be aware of is that in many installations a 3-pole isolation switch is fitted to the fan to allow it to be totally isolated from its electrical supply in the event it needs maintenance work.Again, if installing a axial fan through the wall you may need to chase out a section of wall to run the cable to the fan. Before anything is done at all the very first job is to isolate the power to the circuit you will be working on! This means pulling out the fuse or turning off the MCB for the lighting circuit the bathroom light is getting power from. As it’s in a bathroom, although it’s not required, the belt and braces approach is to fit a 3-pole isolation switch so that all potential live points; permanent live, switched live and neutral are isolated when the switch is turned off.