Beastmaking: A fingers-first approach to becoming a better climber

Product Information

In conclusion, it is a very helpful book that I feel has improved my climbing significantly over the last few months. If you want to learn more about Tendon Hangs, you're welcome to read one of my earlier articles [4].

Alongside changes in attitude to sport climbing and bouldering, Beastmaker helped to change the game and raise the bar. And seriously, who else could you possibly ask for as the perfect exemplar of what can be achieved by successfully incorporating a good training plan into your climbing? Throughout, the message remains clear and the overriding theme is that you’ll still need to put the effort in to make any gains.The text, formatting and chapters feel well done, intuitive, good for browsing or for finding some dedicated information. It mostly focusses on training more at the power end of the spectrum, though does contain a section on endurance training. It gives very concise yet detailed and precise descriptions of the most essential and effective hangboard protocols for building strength and endurance. Another interesting part of the chapter is genetics - how much they determine our climbing ability and potential for climbing hard. It is designed to provide normal people like you and me with the tools we need to get the most out of our climbing.

The book starts with a brief introduction, where Ned clearly explains that his aim was not to go deep into scientific details of training but rather to present a synthesis of his 20+ years of climbing experience. Informative and highly readable, I enjoyed this far more than when I soldiered throught the RCTM a few years ago. Very well composed guidebook about finger training and approach to conditioning in climbing in general. Figuring out what your weak areas are and addressing them can help you significantly improve finger strength and reduce injury risk. It makes what could have been a rather academic text far more approachable and should help see this book sat on many a climbers bookshelves or hopefully open beside the fingerboard.The writing feels like talking to a knowledgeable friend, informative and informal in the perfece balance.

Then there the large sections dedicated to explaining the mechanics of the body going on in the background regardless of how you decide to train.Oh and for anyone now shouting Ondra, Jerry or Megos, there’s a Pro Tips section with these names and more in Chapter 18 towards the end of the book too. You’ll find lots of training advice and also little tricks from someone who knows what it takes to climb hard. He has climbed multiple Font 8cs, and in 2017 he climbed Trust Issues in Rocklands on his first attempt, joining a very small group of climbers to have flashed Font 8b+.