SheeChung 48x15 Ironing Board Cover and Pad - with Elasticized Edges and 3 Connecting Straps,Premium Heavy Duty 3-Layer Silicone Coated Cover,Heat Reflective, Scorch Resistant

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The lowest line coming off the curved lower edge was to get a measurement line. The next line up shows the fixed portion of the fin. Finally the top line shows the amount that needs to be removed. I made the same marks on the other side and then started cutting off the excess. Please note that Maidenhead Aquatics (t/a Rapid Aquatics Limited) is acting as a credit broker and not a lender. Finance is subject to status. Terms and Conditions apply. Applicants must be 18 or over and resident in the UK. Finance is provided by Klarna AB. Registered Office: 10 Crown Place, London, EC2A 4FT. I tend to get motivated when there's a Contest but, as we all know, those have been gone for months ... but maybe, may-y-ybe-e-e the BIG local one will re-appear in March!

The external tanks were painted and ready for the final details to be added. I did that by using CA to attach a device that I had previously scratch built. I’m not sure the exact function of this device. I can’t find any documentation for it as of yet. However, it is built and looks similar to the one on the actual tanks. I painted it silver and then attached it to each tank. I then sprayed on a clear coat to prepare them for the decals. I painted the rest of the tanks. All that is left is to paint on the final few details and then spray them with a clear coat prior to adding the decals to them. I’m sure that I will have to run a drill bit through the small holes to remove the bits of paint and clear coat so the 0.015 rod will pass through. I then glued on the ventral fin. It too has a gap at the fin/fuselage joint that will need filling. It also had a much larger gap at the base of the air brake on the right side. I couldn’t use filler since the air brake was a moveable surface and should have a small gap at the fuselage. I ended up gluing on a strip of .010 sytrene to fill the gap. The end result looks good. In the meantime I primed some of the parts to help highlight any areas that might need some more work. Before I started work on the ventral fin, I noticed that the sides of the dorsal fin had a slight curvature. To correct it I inserted a small strip of .01 x .01 styrene.

Multiplication Table of 48

While that was curing I moved to the rear vent pipes and the ventral antennas. You can see that I have already added the third vent pipe to the left hand vents. The resin parts were identical but if you look at any picture of the rear of the aircraft you can see that the right and left sides were different. I decided to mask off some of the panels to paint with a slightly lighter gray. I first used Tamiya masking tape to outline the areas and then covered the rest of the bird in more Tamiya tape as well as blue painters tape. Practise writing the Table of 48, in the above format from 11 to 20 times and become an expert. Solved Examples I also positioned the tanks where they would go on the fuselage and drilled a register hole. The tanks will have a short piece of 1/16 inch rod that will fit into the hole and aid in getting them in their proper place. The tanks will not be installed until the plane itself is painted.

The canopy didn’t give me as much trouble as I was afraid of, but it did take a fair bit of sanding, scraping and re-scribing. Next it was time to scratch build the hardware that goes near the front of the tanks and has some of the piping passing through it. It was built up from a couple of sizes of styrene strip and a couple of sizes of styrene rod. A couple of the styrene rods had to be drilled out at one end to accept some of the piping. I had to be careful while holding the rods for drilling so I didn’t slip and drill into my finger. That bit isn’t much bigger than some straight pins, but it does a wonderful job.I then shaped another window for the other side. I only dropped a window into the carpet once. Fortunately I was able to find it and didn’t have to shape another window. Once they were glued in and the glue cured, I used some alcohol on a cotton swab to clean the windows both inside and out. I then brushed on a coat of Future Floor Finish on both sides of the windows. It not only makes the windows very clear, but it also helps to hold them in place similar to the glue.